San Elijo State Beach Campground
For many years, my husband Garth and I have traveled the western states in our little 24-foot motorhome, along with our golden retriever Chase (and occasionally our cat!). In this and subsequent RVCYOB articles, I’ll share with you our experiences, our opinions on the best campsites to reserve, clever camping gear and gizmos, tried-and-true hacks, secret hikes, camp recipes, camping with pets and kids, things to avoid, and things you won’t want to miss. I hope you’ll enjoy traveling with us.
Got a surfer in your family like I do? Surfers know about San Elijo—right on the beach in Cardiff near San Diego. This is one of the best campgrounds in California if you surf and even if you don’t. It’s well worth the drive—even if you have to go through LA! I know I’m stretching the concept of “Your Own Backyard” but I think of San Elijo as being in my California backyard, and I’m grateful for these awesome campgrounds you can drive to in just a few hours.
San Elijo offers those warm, Southern California water temperatures—a good 5 to 15 degrees warmer than Estero Bay. The place can accommodate hundreds of surfers spread out along a mile of gorgeous reef breaks with typical surfer-names like Swami’s, Pipes, Traps, Turtles, etc.—similar to Estero Bay’s beach breaks: The Rock, The Pit, Chaney’s, Montecito’s, Pinkies, The Pier…only warmer!
There’s plenty for non-surfers too—warm, sunny, beachside camping; generous campsites; proximity to the exciting little towns of Encinitas and Del Mar on either side. I’ll bet you a bundle of firewood that San Elijo will be one of your favorites—like it is ours.
There are 165 sites, including 26 with hookups and a lively group campsite #128. There’s beach access via five stairways with rinse-off showers. The camp restrooms/showers are immaculate (buy shower tokens at a machine by the park office). Purchase firewood from vending machines with QR code. Campsites have a fire pit/grill, picnic table, and a few screen shrubs. Some have asphalt pads but most are hard sand—some leveling needed. Coveted sites are along the ocean—especially with hookups! Ocean sites in the north section are the most spacious (#145-171, no hookups). Train/road noise is an issue in sites along the Coast Highway. Some of the ocean sites have shrubbery blocking the view to the beach—probably the steep bluff makes pruning too onerous, or maybe the Coastal Commission won’t allow it! If you want the ocean view, check individual campsite photos on the reservation website or go to https://www.campsitephotos.com/ which, by the way, is one of my favorite camping resources.
There’s a dump station ($) and water fill-up (free). Great cell service. The camp store and laundry are closed. But for groceries, there’s upscale Seaside Market across from the campground—a delightful mash-up of Trader Joes and California Fresh.
COAST WALK: A must do! Level, scenic, paved, accessible easy walk—around 2 miles, total loop. Leave camp at the North Gate (near campsite #141). Walk north. Your view opens up to the entire beach all the way to the point. Stop to watch the hundred-plus surfers, then continue along the bluff to Swami’s (iconic spiritual retreat since the 1940s). Cross the Coast Highway at the signal and pick up the much-loved Coastal Rail Trail that will bring you back to Chesterfield Drive along a pretty, landscaped pathway with views all the way to La Jolla. Cross back to camp at the Chesterfield signal, and meet The Cardiff Kook, a statue of a young surfer—often dressed up by locals with hilarious costumes. Walk behind The Kook and re-enter camp at the South Gate. Be aware: North/South Gates close at sundown!
TORREY PINES: Yes, there’s the beautiful golf course, but I’m talking about the Torry Pines State Natural Reserve with 1500 acres of preserved land, spectacular hiking trails and ocean views. This is a must-do if you’re in the San Diego area, and only a short, scenic 7 mile drive south of camp on the Coast Highway. Unfortunately if you’re camping with your dog, you’re out of luck. No dogs are allowed. Visit https://torreypine.org/ for more info. Note there is not an “s” after Torrey in that url.
GOOD EATS: Across from the campground are seafood, pizza and beer, Italian, Mexican, and fast food. Local favorites are the Seaside Market and PIPES. Both have indoor seating as well as dog-friendly outdoor dining. Seaside Market makes sandwiches, soups, breakfast burritos, etc. It’s famous for its Original Crack Tritip—the best tritip I’ve ever tasted (sorry Santa Maria). PIPES is a delightful surf-themed little place for breakfast or lunch, named after the surf break next to your campground. South of camp is Tower13, a surfer/sports bar where we watch Niner games!
DOGS: Leashed dogs are okay in campsites, on camp roads and coast walk. No dogs on the beach by the campground! However, it appears that you can have a leashed, well-mannered dog on the beach to the south of the big, main lifeguard building (along the lagoon outlet). Please be respectful and don’t mess that up for others. Leashed dogs allowed on the beach SOUTH of the lagoon.
KIDS ON BIKES: Lots of them! It’s a relatively safe, flat place for kids to ride around. But this campground is always busy with big RVs cruising down the one-way roads, so your kids should be street-wise or with an adult.
NOISE: The ocean mostly drowns out helicopters from Camp Pendleton, commuter trains, and the regular urban racket like sirens and traffic.
RESERVATIONS: This is an extremely popular campground! You might score a dry campsite last minute at the North End but I advise you plan ahead and book as soon as the 6 month booking window opens at www.reservecalifornia.com , especially if you want a premium site. Check campsite details to make sure your rig will fit. Rates: $50-$95.
Pair this trip with a back-to-back week at Anza-Borrego in the high desert (my next review). The two state parks are not far as the crow flies, but are a complete contrast of experiences—from sea to desert. You’ve got to love California and everything she has to offer you. Go enjoy! And we’ll see you in camp!
