Jalama Beach Campground

For many years, my husband Garth and I have traveled the western states in our little 24-foot motorhome, along with our golden retriever Chase (and occasionally our cat!). In this and subsequent RVCYOB posts, I’ll share with you our experiences, our opinions on the best campsites to reserve, clever camping gear and gizmos, tried-and-true hacks, secret hikes, camp recipes, camping with pets and kids, things to avoid, and things you won’t want to miss. I hope you’ll enjoy traveling with us. Be sure to check out my posts on many other campgrounds you’ll want to add to your favorites list! Just click on the tab: “RV Camping in Your Own Backyard.”

What makes local campers drive two hours south to Jalama Beach when we have beautiful beaches right here in Estero Bay? Is it the miles of pristine beach? The surf? The remoteness—miles from civilization? The postcard-perfect views toward the Channel Islands? Campsites right on the beach? Or the world famous Jalama Burger®? Maybe it’s all of that. Maybe it’s the camaraderie among fellow campers who follow the call to this isolated oasis on the windswept coast between Vandenberg and Point Conception—where Northern California currents meet warmer Southern California countercurrents.

Jalama isn’t for everyone. Compared to manicured, fully accoutered parks, it’s more natural and wild, exposed to Mother Nature’s frequent winds yet also a place where you’ll feel closer to the hills, ocean, and sky than perhaps anywhere else on the Central Coast. Your efforts getting to Jalama will be well-rewarded. You’ll have to slow your pace on the scenic, winding, and pot-holed Jalama Road that takes you to this jewel, this small campground nestled between untamed hills and the ocean. By the time you get to camp, you’ll already be as calm as a cat on gopher-watch as you slowly cruise to a stop at the entry kiosk—ready to find your site and settle in.

Jalama offers various accommodations: Ocean-view cabins (no pets), group campsites, and RV/tent sites—some with hookups (elect. only), and some pull-throughs. There’s a dump station, a water fill-up station and numerous water spigots. Sites are level—gravel, sand, or concrete slabs. Each has a fire ring/grill and table. Want an ocean view site? Try 10-16, 53-64, 80-87, 96, 97, 105-117 or stunning Abalone Point Group site. Note: nighttime winds can damage awnings and pop-ups, and scatter belongings. Calmest months are September-November.

The flush-toilet bathrooms are clean and well-maintained. Coin-op showers cost four quarters for three minutes. I love the three new bathroom buildings—the clever futuristic architecture is straight out of the Jetsons.

WHAT TO DO…WHAT TO DO…Take a nap. Read a book. Listen to the surf roll onto the sand. Walk with the kids on the beach looking for beautiful rocks. Play your ukulele. Enjoy the celestial star show each night, or maybe a rocket launch from Vandenberg like we experienced!

UNPLUG. There’s no cell service—but there are three pay phones (remember those?). Or drive 8.8 or 13.6 miles back up Jalama Road to dirt turnouts where you’ll get 2-4 bars. Wi-Fi in camp is free but spotty and not guaranteed. It’s okay for texts/emails until it boots you off! Be patient. You’re on a mini-vacation!

HAVE FUN. Surf. Fish. Play basketball, horseshoes, or corn hole (rent bags or bring your own). Step back in time just by entering the quaint, well-stocked little Jalama Beach Store & Grill and feel like a little kid again. Buy an ice cream or a toy or a burger and fries, or delicious BLT. They’re open year-round, and have groceries, wine, beer, fishing supplies, firewood, clothes, toys, camping items, and such.

BRING THE KIDS! There’s bike riding. Boogie boarding. Sandcastle building. Kite-flying. A fun beach-themed playground and grassy playfield. Twilight skies reveal multiple satellites to count. A gallery of painted rocks in front of the store beckons kids to leave their own creations.

BRING THE DOG. No dog fee—and the beach is open to leashed dogs! Hallelujah! Please help maintain these policies—respect the leash rule and clean up after your dog.

NOISE: The ocean waves keep up a steady thrum. Seagulls and crows are the resident noisemakers (and food thieves). Amtrak scuttles by occasionally but is nearly silent. If SpaceX blasts off, you’ll have the best seat in the house!

SURFING & FISHING: For a Jalama surf report, husband Garth says the surf breaks called Tarantulas and Cracks (a ¾ mile beach-walk south of camp) are reef breaks—best on south swells but still good on a north swell. You can also surf the less-reliable beach break right in front of the campground or at the mouth of Jalama Creek. For surf fishing, there are anglers up and down the beach catching surfperch (and seaweed) in abundance.

Nightly fees range $35-$55. Cabins $200-$250. It’s popular, plan ahead. Reserve at Santa Barbara County Parks where a 6-month rolling reservation window applies: www.sbparks.org .

Jalama Beach is a tucked-away treasure, just waiting for you to visit again or for the first time. Go chill by yourself, or with friends and family. Give yourself at least three nights if you can. Fall is best. Go now. Please. And tell me how you liked it! Happy camping.