El Capitan State Park Campground

For many years, my husband Garth and I have traveled the western states in our little 24-foot motorhome, along with our golden retriever Chase (and occasionally our cat!). In this and subsequent RVCYOB articles, I’ll share with you our experiences, our opinions on the best campsites to reserve, clever camping gear and gizmos, tried-and-true hacks, secret hikes, camp recipes, camping with pets and kids, things to avoid, and things you won’t want to miss. I hope you’ll enjoy traveling with us.

Often, when I tell people that I can hardly wait to camp at El Cap, I’m met with silence and raised eyebrows. I know what they’re thinking. I certainly don’t look like someone you’d find in Camp 4 at the base of El Capitan, Yosemite.  As an aside, though, I’ll proudly tell you I have climbed Half Dome, albeit by the cable route. But still…

No, today we’re talking about El Capitan State Beach Campground, just 12 miles south of Gaviota along scenic Highway 101—less than 2 hours away. Husband Garth, Chase the Bulldozer, and I camp at this surprisingly large and hidden oceanfront campground more than anywhere else. Why? Well, to start, there’s the surf. If the swell is right and the tide is low, it’s one of the best surf spots on the Central Coast. While Garth surfs, I write, and everyone is happy.

Once you stay at El Cap, you can understand why it’s so popular. It’s beautiful! All 128 campsites are generous, most have trees and shrubbery, and many have ocean views. There are four loops (A, B, C, D), an RV-only section, and two group camps.

A Loop is the lowest one, closest to the beach and surfing. Nestled in some of the most beautiful Coast Live Oaks I’ve ever seen, the sites are large and shady. No view and poor cell reception but it’s one of our favorite loops.

B Loop sits higher but it’s still only a short walk down to the beach. At least half the sites have ocean views. Most of the sites are spacious with large trees. It’s another of our favorite loops.

C Loop is higher still and the sites are more open and a bit smaller. Sites 82-85 have nice ocean views but zero privacy.

D Loop sits about as high as C Loop and has some beautiful sites if you’re looking for an ocean view. Sites 101, 103, 105, 107 are hard to get but well worth the effort. There’s more wind in D Loop.

RVs Only area (sites 124, 126, 128, 130, 132) are at the highest point in the campground with some jaw-dropping ocean views all the way to the Channel Islands. These sites (approx. 45’x22’) sit at the edge of a large parking lot and run parallel to the ocean with a somewhat level grassy area right outside your door. Set yourself up for some incredible sunset shows. Each site has a picnic table and a firepit/grill. It can get a little breezy because it’s so open. If you want privacy, these sites aren’t for you. Because there are only 5 spots, they go fast.

Be prepared for dry camping—no hookups. Before you settle into your site, fill up at the water station right past B Loop. There’s no dump station. Closest one going north is at Flying Flags in Buellton, or going south it’s the 76 gas station in Goleta (Winchester exit). All the sites have asphalt pads that require some leveling. Each site has a firepit/grill and picnic table. Some sites are very short. When you make reservations, note the pad length! 3 vehicles maximum per site including trailers. 8 people max. No pull-throughs. You can get firewood from the camp hosts or the little camp store when it’s open. Note: the camp store doesn’t have food other than ice cream and beer.

There are restrooms and showers in every loop--older state-park type, clean enough but showing their age. The showers require tokens, dispensed from a machine that only takes credit cards ($1 per token for 2 min). I suggest having extra tokens because often it takes 2 minutes just to get hot water.

BEACH ACCESS: You can drive to Day Use parking lot (no additional fee). Or easy walk from A and B Loops. Pretty Nature Trails start by the entry kiosk. From C and D Loops, there’s a long stairway down to the beach—access off the bike path across from campsite #123 in D Loop or #84 in C Loop. There’s no signage telling you it’s a beach-access trail. If you’re staying in the RV-only campsites, you can access the beach by a trail to another long staircase—access off the camp road just past Ortega Group Area. This trail is marked.

HIKING: Walk west on beach to Refugio or east on beach just to the houses. The state park extends across the highway and includes some moderate hiking trails with rewards of beautiful vistas. Once upon a time there was a beautiful bike/hike path connecting El Cap campground with Refugio campground. Years ago, the ocean undermined big sections of it and the state closed it. Those who are not faint of heart can still bike or walk it at their own risk.  We often do, and come back along the beach. But as we walk back along the beach and look up at how precariously the path is hanging onto the cliff, we get the heebie-jeebies and swear we won’t do it again. But we do.

DOGS: Must be leashed and aren’t allowed on beach--though we’ve seen a few well-behaved dogs along the remote section of beach going east. Bunnies, skunks, foxes, ground squirrels. Poison oak but no ticks.

KIDS: Once when we were staying in A Loop, after dark a large group of kids and adults on bikes started riding around and around the loop road and they were all lit up from head to toe and handbars to spokes with light wands and flashing lights. They called themselves the Electric Parade. Other campers joined them until nearly the entire loop was involved in the parade or was cheering them on as they circled past.  The beach is the main attraction for kids. Lifeguard towers are occupied during the summer months. The ocean has a pretty consistent rough shore break. Ice cream at the store. Good stargazing because the campground is very dark at night.

CELL reception varies:  Verizon 1-2 bars in A loop, 2-3 bars in B loop, 3 bars in C and D Loops

REUNIONS: El Cap in now our family’s favorite place for Family Campfests. Try to book sites together or add one of the group campsites adjacent.

RESERVATIONS: www.ReserveCalifornia.com 6 months ahead. Very popular. Often, it will be entirely booked, but there will be vacant campsites because people don’t cancel. Grrr! That practice keeps others from having a chance to camp. If it shows “full” online, ReserveCalifornia can notify you of an opening. From Nov 30-March 31 no reservations are needed—first come/first served, and they close A Loop. There are always plenty of campsites then, and wintertime is a wonderful time to camp at El Cap. Fees: $45/night, senior discount (over 62) $2. Extra vehicles $10/night. No dog fee.

Please note: El Capitan is scheduled to open this year (2023) on May 26th due to storm damage repairs. Then they will close again on July 15 for nine months to a year for entry road improvements. It’ll be a short camping season at El Cap this year. Hope to see you there!

Garth and I have rated all the campsites at El Cap which helps us greatly when we’re back home, online, and trying to remember the good sites when making reservations. If you’d like a copy of our rating sheet, just let me know on the contact page and I’ll email it to you. Rest assured, I will NEVER sell your email address. Happy camping!